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Tsunami from Deep to Shallow

In the deep ocean, a tsunami wave moves fast but stays low and stretched out. As it reaches shallow coastal water, it slows down, bunches up, and rises into a tall wave.

In the picture

  1. Low, broad crest in deep water: small height and wide spacing.
  2. Ship at the surface: it floats calmly while the long wave passes beneath.
  3. Upward-sloping seafloor: the water becomes shallower near the coast.
  4. Tall curling crest at the shore: the wave slows, shortens, and grows high.

Examples

  • A long swell crossing the open sea after a distant undersea earthquake.
  • A wave in a bathtub that rises when it reaches the shallow end.

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Physics, Age 14