A Beach in Two Seasons

In the picture

1. 1The tall steep wave that breaks on the beach.
2. 2The short vertical cut edge where the waves have pulled sand from the shore.
3. 3The cluster of five sand grains drifting seaward in the water.
4. 4The low rounded mound of sand resting on the seabed offshore.
5. 5The thin sheet of water sliding sand back up the wide lower beach.

Examples

• A narrow, steep beach right after a winter storm.
• Sand shifting under your feet as a gentle wave slides back down.

Quiz: A Beach in Two Seasons (Age 12)

1. 1

   What do the tall, steep winter waves do to the beach?

   • They pull sand off the beach and drop it offshore.
   • They push sand up the beach and make it wider.
   • They move sand only along the coast, leaving the beach height unchanged.
2. 2

   Where does the sand taken by winter waves mostly end up?

   • On top of the beach as a high ridge.
   • In a low mound on the seabed just offshore.
   • Far out in the deepest ocean.
3. 3

   What do gentler summer waves do?

   • They pull even more sand offshore and make the beach steeper.
   • They move the offshore mound sideways without returning sand to the beach.
   • They push the offshore sand back up the beach, making it wide and flat.

The answers, each with its explanation, are in the app. This lesson has left the free week, so its quiz is part of the subscription.