A Beach in Two Seasons
In winter, tall steep waves drag sand off the beach and drop it in a mound under the water just offshore. In summer, gentler waves push that sand back up the slope and the beach grows wide and flat.
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Age 12: open this week
Browse Age 12In the picture
- The tall steep wave that breaks on the beach.
- The short vertical cut edge where the waves have pulled sand from the shore.
- The cluster of five sand grains drifting seaward in the water.
- The low rounded mound of sand resting on the seabed offshore.
- The thin sheet of water sliding sand back up the wide lower beach.
Examples
- A narrow, steep beach right after a winter storm.
- Sand shifting under your feet as a gentle wave slides back down.
Key takeaways
- Tall winter waves carry sand offshore and build underwater sandbars.
- Gentle summer waves return that sand to the beach and make it wider.
Carry on in the app
Three questions on this lesson. It has left the free week, so its quiz is for subscribers.
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